Is This the Way to Madagascar?
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Madagascar is 4h behind Hanoi. It is currently in Hanoi and in Madagascar. Launch map view. What companies run services between Hanoi, Vietnam and Madagascar? Emirates, Kenya Airways and nine other airlines fly from Hanoi to Antananarivo every 4 hours.
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Website tsaradia. Website kenya-airways. Website ewa-air. Website airmauritius. Website ethiopianairlines. The rest of the drive was uneventful and eventually we arrived in Antananarivo. For the 3rd time in a week, we were at the Bois Vert hotel, but this time in an upgraded room. A AM start from Antananarivo to drive towards Andasibe, our next location. The drive was frustrating as it was planned to take 3 hours, yet in reality took 5. Given that the previous day was also spent entirely in the car, we were grumpy. Just before a late lunch, we visited Peireras, a small outdoor reptile zoo we had visited years earlier.
Including some almost impossible to encounter in the wild, like this Leaf-nosed snake:. Despite our late arrival, we were told that we could still do a quick tour in the Andasibe area with Lucy. Lucy…we had not heard that name for 7 years but it immediately rang a bell. Lucy was the guide we hired 7 years earlier on a spontaneously planned birding hike in Andasibe.
No worries, this was just an appetizer for the rest of our visit to Andasibe. Although Henriette and I have seen several leaf-tailed geckos in the wild in earlier editions, each new observation still blows our mind and we were thrilled that Ymke could finally see one for herself in a way you would normally find it. Or, more likely, not find it. Only a wild observation of these creatures provides the context of what they are about. Consider that this one is lit up with flash, seeing it with your own eyes would make it even less detectable.
He seemed a dedicated man, possibly a famous photographer.
I could tell by his gear, and the enormous amount of time he took to get the shot right. We did not exchange words. This social interaction is visible by the micro nod of the head, indicating that one has indeed detected the presence of the other, after which the gesture is returned by a nano nod of the head, to confirm physical presence, yet with an even smaller interest in higher forms of communication.
In periods where eyes do not meet, lengthy gear stares estimate the size of the threat. What made him stand out even more were the flash assistants. He had hired two local women for the single purpose of them holding up remote flash units as per his instructions. This had me conflicted. Superficially, it appears as quite elitist and snobbish. In any case, remote flash in dark forests typically leads to better results than heads-on flash so after the guy left the scene I did a sloppy reproduction.
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This is single remote flash. Dual flash was not possible due to my other assistants complaining about their pay, spontaneously organizing themselves into a union and going on strike. She is simply too damn short to hold up the unit high enough. Ending the appetizer tour, we arrived at Grace Lodge just before darkness for an overnight stay. Grace Lodge has beautiful lodges in an idyllic garden. Yet it has an absurd restaurant. Pale white marble floors, the brightest and coldest light possible, and the complete absence of sounds or atmosphere, other than hollow echoes.
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When ordering a coffee in this restaurant, you might get 25 of them due to the echoes that keep bouncing around. I imagine dining in Soviet prison to be a warmer experience. There was the appeal though of a hot shower, a rarity in Madagascar. As we did not dare to risk nuclear fusion, we went for the classic Malagasy shower: sprinkling yourself slightly with ice cold water whilst telling yourself that you did indeed shower and are clean. A common tactic to use is to simply stand next to the running water.
Explain your tears by claiming shampoo got into your eyes. Time to explore Andasibe in deeper ways. We made way to an abandoned train station where we were to meet our local guide Liva. Whilst waiting for him, we could hear the Indri Indris waking up, their loud calls echoing across the valley.
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The ancient land cruiser arrived after which we met the team. Liva as the English-speaking main guide, an assistant guide, a young driver, and a cook. The crowded vehicle was next further stuffed with supplies, including a live chicken. Proceeding towards camp, we were kind of happy that reaching camp was mostly done by car, not by hike.
The dirt road we took for some 90 minutes was in a poor state and steeply upwards, so progress was slow. We then exited the vehicle for a short hike in the forest with Liva whilst the rest of the staff continued to start setting up camp ahead of us. The hike did not produce much but the forest is a joy to walk in and we did manage to see a Blue Coua, Red-bellied Lemur and a Diademed Sifaka new to Ymke. After the hike we were picked up by the jeep for a 20 minute drive to finally reach the camp site.
The camp site is spacious, and mostly used by local researchers. Tents are installed on wooden platforms with a roof. It was cool to see the difference in how Ymke handled camp arrival this time. After the initial shock of Ranomafana, a very similar situation is now no big deal. Fun even. Then there was the incident which we refer to as super water. The staff had supplied us with 7 large bottles of water.
As I was doing a little solo macro tour around camp, Henriette shouted from a distance that the water tasted funny. A few minutes later she repeated that it has a really strange taste. Yeah yeah, I heard you , so I thought. She kept going: this water makes me feel warm inside. So I took a sip and immediately spit it out. It was home made rum.